Some places are striking because of the landscape, others because of their history, and some because it’s hard to believe they really exist. The San Miguel de Arretxinaga hermitage in Markina-Xemein clearly belongs to the latter group. At first look it calls your attention, but it’s when you go inside that its great uniqueness appears. Three enormous stones form the heart of the church and turn this visit into one of the most peculiar in Biscay.
This enclave is located next to the Way of St. James at the point where the Artibai and Urko rivers meet, and it’s part of a very interesting heritage site together with the old city hall of the elizate (local government) of Xemein and the test square with dragging stones. So, it’s not just an isolated hermitage, but a small space with a lot of historical significance in the town.
What really makes this place special are the three giant stones it has inside. The hermitage could be described as a hexagonal 18th century church whose altar is made of three large boulders, which makes it one of the most unique religious structures in the Basque Country. The current hermitage was erected in the 18th century because the earlier one was in ruins, and its hexagonal floor plan reinforces the feeling of being in an uncommon place even more.
The name Arretxinaga itself helps understand the identity of the place. It means “a place where stones lie or are put”, a definition that perfectly fits the image visitors find when they enter. Consequently, it’s no accident that the hermitage and stones make such a recognisable group in the local heritage.
In addition to the visual impact, the place has a strong symbolic and traditional dimension. The local tourist information says that San Miguel appears between the stones confronting a demon-dragon with a lance, and it puts the origins of the enclave in the High Middle Ages when it started having hermits and members of a military order. The mixture of geology, religiosity and popular traditions is precisely what makes the visit have so much personality.
One of the most attractive aspects of this hermitage is that it completely breaks with the conventional idea of a rural church. You don’t just come here to see an historic building, but to discover this rarity of a heritage site that mixes architecture, stone and legend in a single space. Turismo Euskadi includes it among the most striking elements of Markina-Xemein, precisely because of its exceptional nature in Basque heritage.
The visit, furthermore, can be completed very well with other places near the town. The Markina-Xemein tourism office includes it on its heritage route, so it can be paired up with other places in the area and become a highly recommendable stop within an excursion in the comarque.
What makes the Hermitage of the Three Stones special
- It has three enormous stones inside that form its central element.
- It’s located in a historic enclave where the Artibai and Urko rivers come together.
- Its hexagonal floor plan and origins in the 18th century make it even more unique.
- It’s part of one of the most unusual heritage clusters of Markina-Xemein.
Practical Information
Location: Markina-Xemein, at Arretxinaga Etorbidea 24
Area: Next to the Way of St. James and close to the old city hall of Xemein and the stone yard
Perfect For: A short visit with a lot of visual impact and heritage value The latter is a reasonable deduction given the architectural uniqueness, being on heritage routes and tourist accessibility.
Establishments nearby
Accommodation nearby
